10K Potentiometer/Trimpot -Pack of 5
10K Potentiometer
A 10K Potentiometer is also known as a variable resistor. This Potentiometer is great for controlling the contrast on your LCD
This 10K potentiometer pinout is a variable resistor that can control the contrast on an LCD display. This Potentiometer allows you to be able to see your images in their crispest form by varying the amount of light that passes through them. In addition, this product is made from good quality material that only ensures durability and longevity. Purchase now for access to better graphics!
Potentiometers are those components that look like resistors except they have two pins and value printed on them. 10k ohm potentiometers take the place of your standard resistor for controlling contrast on LCDs. Easy to use, just plug it in and work your way up or down safely the see which one gives you the best picture quality. These come in packs of five so we recommend grabbing a pack if you want to experiment with different colors and contrasts!
The 10K potentiometer is a basic and common trimmer potentiometer. It’s the most popular type of potentiometer and is a simple-to-use item. due to its capability for general-purpose applications that require variable amounts of resistance, low power usage, and ease of manufacture. 10k potentiometer Arduino has a turn top adjustment (also known as protruding middle pin) and one end connects to the ground with the other end connected through another resistor forming an adjustable voltage divider.
When it comes to breadboarding and prototyping, we’ve got your back! These pots are perfect for the job. With their long grippy adjustment knob (0.1″ spacing), they can fit in any Arduino board or PCB with ease – which means you won’t need another interface board when making prototypes like these ones that come included as part of tutorial packs such as LCDs & Character Movement Sensors
FAQ:
What is a 10k potentiometer?
A 10k potentiometer (a.k.a “pot” or “knob”) is an electronic component that can be used to control the flow of electricity through a circuit, much like a faucet regulates the flow of water in your home.
A 10k pot has three terminals at one end – known as the wiper, outside leads, and ground – just like any other potentiometer does but its total resistance on either side is approximately 10K ohms when completely turned clockwise and 0 ohms when completely turned counterclockwise. Potentiometers with values less than 10k are called regular (“linear”) pots whereas those above are called logarithmic because resistive track increases by orders of magnitude as you turn the knob from one end to the other.
how to wire a 10k potentiometer to an Arduino board?
The 10k pot is wired to the Arduino analog pin 0 (A0) by connecting the shaft of the potentiometer to one end of its resistive track to 5v and the other end to GND (ground) on the Arduino board. The wiper terminal of the 10k pot will be connected through a resistor (pot box not included in your kit, it needs to be bought separately at any local electronics store) to Arduino A0.
If using an external power supply instead of a USB cable, connect the Arduino/Genuino’s ground (GND) pin to your power supply’s negative terminal. Then connect Arduino/Genuino’s 5V pin to your power supply positive terminal.
You need three wires for this connection: one to connect 5V (or the power supply’s voltage), one to connect GND (ground), and one for analog read A 0 and 1023. For this, you can use any solid-core wire, but stranded-core wires are recommended as they will flex and hold their shape better than a stiff solid-core wire.
Alternatively, you can use a voltage divider and an analog input pin of another Arduino pin. Connect one end of the first resistor (3.3kOhm) to 5V and the other end to A 0 volts. Then connect another resistor (10kOhm) from A0 to GND as shown in the image below:
If you do not want to use an external power supply, you can hook up a USB cable directly into an Arduino board for this example as well, but make sure that the board is powered by at least 500mA if powering with USB through a computer; otherwise, it may not work properly.
You can verify whether your Arduino board is getting enough power by checking the LEDs on the board. If it is not getting enough power, an LED may not turn on or may even turn off depending on the Arduino board.
In case you want to use a USB cable instead of an external power supply, make sure that the connections match the schematic below:
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| | NO LOAD | 5V —————– USB PIN | µA711 ———————-(R1) V_SENSE —————————– GND ———————-(R2) A0 —————————— GND ———————– SCLK —————————– D11 (SS) ———————- SCK ————————— D13 (MOSI) ——————– MISO ———————– D12 (MISO) ——————– 5V —————————– V_USB
, you only need to provide the power pins (5 and GND). The USB is powered by the same source that provides power to the board. You can use a computer, an AC-to-DC adapter, or a battery pack as shown in this tutorial.
If your module doesn’t turn on check:
That means you need to connect an external power supply as described in the schematic above. If it still won’t turn on make sure that:
You made a mistake soldering one of the two small resistors that are located very close together on the PCB. Check for shorts between several pins of the potentiometer with a multimeter and fix any possible short circuits before
To create your own circuit:
First, determine which contacts on the pot box correspond to the center pin and the left/right pins of the pot by turning it so that all three terminals line up horizontally. Mark them with tape or put a small piece of scotch tape over those terminals. You can use those markers to identify each contact inside your breadboard as well as on the schematic below.
The outside terminals, marked W and S, will connect to an input on your microcontroller. Connect the center terminal (marked with a dot) of the pot box to V+ and the right-most terminal (marked with an arrow) will be GND.
The schematic:
This schematic is just for one axis of the joystick, if you want two axes then simply wire up the second axis as shown in this diagram below.
Note that you can use any analog pin on your Arduino for A0 instead of 3 and 4. The upper right contact on my breadboard corresponds to A3 so I connected it to analog input 3 on my Arduino Uno R3 board. Let me know if you have problems by commenting or contacting me through one of my blogs linked at the bottom of this step.
I’ve soldered wire to the centermost terminal of the potentiometer, indicated with a dot on this image. The reason for that is that I had trouble reading values with just two wires attached to the resistor. I don’t know if it’s related to any other components on either side of it or what, but it didn’t work without adding another wire!
